HARDWARE GUIDE

Choosing a Power Supply:
How Many Watts Are Needed?

The power supply is the part that is economised on the most when building a computer, but the one that proves most expensive when a fault occurs. The reason is simple: every other component is fed by it. A power supply that runs unstably does not only fail itself, it can take the parts it feeds down with it. This guide explains how to determine the correct capacity and quality.

Wattage calculation: what is it based on?

What determines the total capacity is what the system at the same time is the highest power that can be drawn. In practice this figure is dominated by two components: the graphics card and the processor. The total of the other components (drive, memory, fans) remains small alongside these two.

The correct approach is as follows: what the graphics card manufacturer states recommended system power value as your basis. This value is already stated taking a typical processor and the surrounding components into account. Leaving some margin on top of it is necessary for two reasons.

Why is headroom left?

These two reasons make it sensible to choose one step up rather than “just enough”. In addition, if you are considering a graphics card upgrade later on, buying the power supply accordingly from the outset is more economical overall.

What do the 80 PLUS certifications tell you?

These certificates measure efficiency: they show how much of the electricity drawn from the socket is passed on to the computer and how much is lost as heat.

Efficiency = less heat

The energy that is lost turns into heat. High efficiency means less heat inside the case and a longer service life.

Quieter operation

A power supply that runs cooler operates its fan less. This has a direct effect for anyone who wants a quiet system.

An indicator of quality

Certification requires independent testing. With uncertified products the quality of the internal components is uncertain.

Label ≠ actual power

With low-quality products the figure on the label may not be the power that can be delivered continuously but a short-term peak value.

The last point is particularly important. If there is a considerable price difference between two power supplies with the same wattage rating, the difference usually lies precisely here: a cheap product can deliver the power stated on the label only under ideal conditions and for a short time.

The real cost of a cheap power supply

The power supply is the only component in the system that, when it fails, can damage other partsIn a power supply with inadequate protection circuits, voltage fluctuations are passed directly on to the motherboard and the other components.

The protections to look for are as follows: over-voltage, under-voltage, over-current, over-power, short-circuit and over-temperature protection. The fact that these protections are listed in the product description is a concrete indication of the manufacturer's seriousness.

The symptoms produced by a poor-quality power supply are familiar: random restarts, shutdowns under load and unexplained blue screens. In systems that come to us with these complaints we always include the power supply in the scope of testing; the details in our guide on computers shutting down by themselves.

Cable design: modular or fixed?

Important warning: Never swap modular cables between power supplies of different brands or models. Even if the connectors look the same, the pin layouts may differ, and this leads to damage to the connected hardware.

Physical fit and connectors

The physical fit must be checked just as much as the capacity:

If you would like to check the compatibility of all the components with one another one by one our component compatibility guide provides a comprehensive checklist.

When should it be replaced?

The following symptoms place the power supply on the list of suspects: sudden shutdowns under load, crackling or electrical noise coming from the case, a smell of burning, a fan that does not turn at all, and unexplained instabilities that appear after years. If there is a smell of burning, stop operating the device immediately.

At our service centre we test power supplies under load and measure voltage stability. In this way the uncertainty of “could it be this?” is removed and a sound part is not replaced unnecessarily. To determine the capacity suitable for your system, it is enough to send us your current component list.

The parts featured in this guide are available in our store

Frequently Asked Questions

How many watts should the power supply I buy have?
The peak consumption of the components in the system has to be added up and a margin added on top. In practice the most decisive component is the graphics card, and card manufacturers state the recommended system power clearly. Do not go below that figure; if there is a possibility that you will upgrade, choose the next level up.
Does buying a higher wattage increase the electricity bill?
No. A power supply does not continuously draw the value on its label; it delivers as much as the system needs at that moment. An 850W supply consumes 400W in a system that draws 400W. In fact, since modern power supplies work more efficiently in the mid-load range, the difference can turn out to be the opposite of what is expected in theory.
Does the 80 PLUS certification matter?
The certificate measures efficiency, that is, how much of the electricity drawn is converted into useful work. Higher efficiency means less heat and quieter operation. In addition, since certified products go through an independent testing process, they also offer a more reliable indicator of quality than uncertified products.
How long does a power supply last?
The capacitors inside it lose capacity over time; for that reason its stability decreases over the years. When a system that has run without trouble for years begins to shut down or restart although nothing has changed, that is a classic sign of this ageing.

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